Day 5

Assos to Akhisar, Tuesday, June 22, 2010: After breakfast, we boarded our tour bus and departed somewhere around 8:00 a.m. for our first stop at Bergama. We visited the archeological sites of the Pergamum Acropolis and Asklepion. The Acropolis was the site of temples to Zeus, Athena, Trajan and others. Another structure of interest is the Library at Pergamum, which rivaled the Egyptian Library at Alexandria. Because of this rivalry the Egyptians stopped exporting papyrus to Pergamum. The Pergamenes invented a paper - from treated animal skin - parchment which led the invention of paged books. The parchment derived its name from the word "Pergamum" and had so many advantages that in time books replaced scrolls.

Things this acropolis has in common with all the others we visited are uneven walking surfaces and massive stairs. The top level of excavation of most of the ruins we visited tended to be structures built by the Roman Empire or converted by the Romans from structures built by earlier civilizations. At that point in time, the average Roman stood about 5’4”. So why do the marble stairs they constructed all have risers of 12 to 18 inches? One needs to be a mountain goat to ascend and descend. Perhaps it was one of many defense mechanisms. An acropolis is built at the highest point in the area. They were walled and approaching them was difficult. These cities were destroyed either by earthquake or fire, which is why there are so many layers of different cultures, city after city built upon the ruins of another.

Below the Pergamum Acropolis is the Asklepion which is a famed ancient medical center built in honor of Asklepios, the god of healing. Treatments included psychotherapy, massage, herbal remedies, mud and bathing treatments, the interpretation of dreams, and the drinking of the water. Patients brought offerings, usually representing the part of the body requiring healing. A holistic approach was used recognizing that spirit, mind, and body each influence the others. I was very impressed with what these ancient physicians were able to accomplish.

When we left the sites at Pergamum it was time for lunch, so our next stop was Densen Halicilik Carpet Weavers Association co-operative. We had the opportunity to view cocoons spun by silkworms, being processed into silk thread and then spun into yarn. We saw a variety of yarns wool, cotton, and silk which were dyed using only natural vegetable dyes. We watched the weavers create the Turkish carpets which are so beautiful. Then were fed a light lunch while we we viewed magnificent carpets, one by one. After viewing handmade carpets and the labor that goes into creating one, it is understandable why these creations are so costly. A large carpet may take up to six years to weave. The first one that caught my attention, silk on silk, was $26,000. Since it was out of my price range, I settled for cotton on cotton, measuring 18" by 24", at a cost of $400. My heirs will be able to sell it at a good profit. Our group of 22 tourists bought a number of carpets that day. 90% of the proceeds go directly to the weavers. The co-op operating expenses are subsidized by the Turkish government, so the profit goes to the artisans.

After a very full day with many worthwhile experiences we spent the night at the Palm City Hotel in Akhisar. This resting place left much to be desired. Our guide, Mahmet, assured us he would recommend that the tour company not use this hotel in future.

Day 4

Istanbul to Assos, Monday, June 21, 2010: After breakfast and after loading our luggage onto our tour bus we departed at about 8:00 a.m. Once we escaped Istanbul, we drove west on the northern coast of the Sea of Marmara through Thrace to the port of Eceabat on the Gallipoli peninsula. The highways were excellent and lightly traveled the farther west we went. We caught occasional glimpses of the sea to the south, but mostly we saw flat and rolling agricultural areas; very peaceful lands upon which many bloody battles have been fought. After about five hours on the road, we ate a quick lunch at a restaurant near the ferry terminal and then walked aboard the boat for the trip across the Dardanelles.

The crossing took about 20 minutes. When we walked ashore at Canakkale, I took my second header. We were walking up the pier from the ferry to avoid being run over by the lorries and buses disembarking. Once again I was so busy looking at the sights around me instead of looking where I was placing my feet, that I tripped over a curb. This time I had a good audience of at least ten of my group. After I assured everyone that I had only suffered scrapes and bruises and no broken bones we moved ahead to where we could board our bus. After that, for the remainder of the tour, there was always someone nearby to keep me on my feet. I am not certain how they decided whose turn it would be each day, and if I did find myself alone it was not for long.

Our first stop in Asia Minor was the ruins of the cities of Troy. It is believed that there have been at least nine cities built upon the site. Early archeologists did severe damage to artifacts on some of the levels of excavation. But general opinion is that the level VII is the Troy of Homer’s epic poem. The most visible ruins are of level IX, the Roman city of Ilium. Everywhere we went, the Roman Empire has built upon and covered the ruins of earlier civilizations.

Our next visit was to Alexandria Troas. This city was built in the 4th century BCE and named after Alexander the Great. It has not been excavated to the extent of many other sites in Asia Minor. The Apostle Paul is known to have visited there in the 1st century CE.

Next we move onto the topic of restrooms, or as they are referred to in Turkey, the W.C. You will understand that the upkeep of a W.C. is not a high priority in Turkey. I won’t go into graphic description, but let it be said that the facilities in many a W.C . were mere holes in the ground, and those which actually provided a toilet stool were barely any better. However at our first rest stop in Asia Minor we were delighted with restrooms worthy of Disneyland. They were clean, each stall had a door and a stool, the interior finish was tile and marble, and the decor included flowers and Disney characters. We ladies were so excited at this turn of events we felt it necessary to take photos of the W.C.

Our overnight stop was at Hotel Eden Gardens in Assos. Our rooms were comfortable and each endowed with a balcony type veranda, the doors to which I and my roommate kept open all night. We enjoyed the sea breezes. We were footsteps away from the Aegean Sea. After 4 days of hard travel, it truly was Eden.

Reflections on Istanbul

Istanbul is the 5th largest city in the world with a population of 12.8 million. The city spans two continents, Europe and Asia, and two eras, BCE and CE. Istanbul is the old cities of Byzantium and Constantinople and a young modern-thinking city with an appreciation for all things western.

The people are predominately Muslim. Indeed, there are mosques visible in every direction and you can hear the call to prayer wherever you may be. But Istanbul is a secular city insuring freedom of worship to all. There are both Catholic and Orthodox churches in the city and even a few Protestant congregations.

Friendly and helpful,most Turks speak a little English. The language is taught in Turkish schools beginning in first grade. There is a presence of armed military, but not as prevalent as in Mexico. While the soldiers are not smiling and friendly, neither do you feel threatened by them.

Turks are very proud of their republic. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk fought first in the Ottoman military, working his way up through the ranks. Resigning from the Ottoman Army in 1919, because of his opposition to the partition of Turkey, he then went on to lead the war for independence against the allied armies of Great Britain, Italy, France, and Greece. He is revered as the Father of the Turkish Republic, in much the same way that George Washington is revered as the Father of our Country. The Republic of Turkey was officially established on October 29, 1923. There are numerous statues and portraits of Atatürk throughout the city of Istanbul.

The Turks are a merchant people. You can find everything under the sun for sale (except pork). No liquor stores on the corners, but hotels all have bars serving a wide variety of alcoholic choices. On our tour bus, we drove along a street in Istanbul, Fevzipasa Caddesi, with at least a hundred shops selling formals and wedding gowns. When we inquired of our guide, Mahmet, how there could be a market for so many gorgeous gowns, he explained that a Muslin bride also desires to be beautiful on her wedding day.

Cats! There are cats everywhere in Istanbul. Highly respected in Islam, cats are like holy animals in Turkey, much like cows in India. No single person’s pets, they breed indiscriminately, they receive no veterinary care, but they are friendly, inquisitive and always looking for a hand out. Only a few appear overfed, and indeed some are pathetically thin. Their primary duty is to keep the rodent population under control. We saw mostly teenagers and young adults, but occasionally a mature adult was to be seen basking in the sun.

I enjoyed my stay in Istanbul, much as I would enjoy a stay in New York or Paris. Big cities around the world have more in common than whatever differences might exist among them. Istanbul, the end of the line for the fabled Orient Express, has the mystery of the Middle East and many of the conveniences of the West.

Two days in Istanbul were too few; two weeks would be better.

Day 3

Istanbul, Sunday, June 20, 2010: We were up early, ate a Turkish continental breakfast: Watermelon, fruit, cheese, olives, tomatoes, yogurt, hard cooked eggs (I personally avoided eggs during the entire trip), coffee, and little pastries. This breakfast was what we were served throughout the entire trip. We were offered watermelon at virtually every meal in Turkey.

Instead of boring my readers to death with my description of all the sights we visited, I am attaching links to websites that provide detailed information and photographs.

After breakfast our group of 22 was out of the hotel and onto Turkish public transportation, the T1 Zeytinburnu- Kabataş (-Beşiktaş) tram, for our morning excursions. Our first stop was the Topkapi Palace, home of the Ottoman Sultans until 1856. The palace and grounds are a setting right out of Scheherazade. At one time the palace housed a population of 5,000. For detailed information on Topkapi Palace visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topkapi_Palace.


The crown jewels were on display in the Treasury, a linear set of rooms, each with an armed Turkish soldier very visible. Taking pictures in the Treasury was not allowed to visitors, so to see pictures visit http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2896780070031751182HfUEMM. View pictures 180 through 190.

My very favorite place at the palace was a shaded terrace overlooking the Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmara.

From Topkapi Palace we walked to the Archaeological Museum. We could have spent days there but only had a couple of hours. Visit http://www.pbase.com/dosseman/archaeological_museum_istanbul to see far more pictures and of better quality than I could have taken during our brief visit.

Our last stop before lunch was Hagia Sophia http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a--qpyX75Ik. This was the first of three lessons I learned about the need to keep your eyes where you are walking, not looking at all the interesting and exciting antiquities. Throughout our trip we walked on uneven surfaces, dangerous paths, and challenging stairs without railings. As I descended the dark tunneled stairway to the ground floor of Hagia Sophia I slipped and fell. Fortunately, I was at the last step before a landing and didn’t have far to fall. I did manage to turn my ankle and bruise my body. Only one of my traveling companions was with me at that moment, so my embarrassment was minimal. I safely descended the remainder of the stairs and walked it off.

After Hagia Sophia we were set free to do lunch on our own. I stayed with my daughter, her husband and his mother. Instead of following the recommendation of our guide to visit a food shop where we could view the offerings and point at what we wanted, we chose a real sit-down restaurant so we could be waited upon. I believe the name of the restaurant was the Sultan Pub. Service was slow, food was mediocre, and prices were high.

After lunch our tour bus met us at a nearby intersection and drove us to the site of the Hippodrome of Constantinople and the Blue Mosque http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sultan_Ahmed_Mosquepedia.org/wiki/Sultan_Ahmed_Mosque. The Blue Mosque is an active place of worship for Muslims. So we behaved accordingly. We removed our shoes and placed them in plastic bags which we carried with us. The women in our group covered heads and shoulders with a hijab (scarf), and one young man whose shorts did not cover his knees was required to drape a wrap around his lower body. The sense of divine presence was as palpable as in a mighty cathedral. As infidels we were required to stay outside the prayer area. If we had been believers our men might have entered the prayer area, but Islamic women are relegated to a separate area behind the men’s prayer area.

The Hippodrome http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hippodrome_of_Constantinople was a circus built for sporting events. Now only a few fragments of the original structures survive. The Obelisk of Thutmosis III is one of the few to remain intact.

Our last stop of the day was the Chora Church http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chora_Church. The mosaics, plastered over when the church was converted to a mosque, have been uncovered. They are breathtaking http://eikonografos.com/album/ from the menu select BYZANTINE MOSAICS then select Chora Church, CONSTANTINOPOLE.

With the exception of the Blue Mosque all of the sites we visited are now public monuments or museums, most managed by the Turkey Ministry of Tourism.

We returned to the Kent Hotel for dinner and our last night in Istanbul.

Live long and prosper!

Days 1 & 2

I have been home in California for almost a week and I still fall asleep at inconvenient times and awake at inconvenient times. But I believe I have recovered enough to begin blogging my adventures. The time changes when traveling west are more difficult than when I travel east, so I still find myself on Turkish time.

Day One was spent entirely in travel. We left Kent, OH, on the morning of Friday, June 18. When we arrived at Cleveland Hopkins Airport we checked in, went through security and ate lunch at a very nice British style pub. We then met up with the others in our travel group (22 of us all together), boarded our aircraft and began our journey. We connected with our overseas flight at Newark Liberty International. We had one hour and fifty minutes to make our connection for Zurich. No time for dawdling but sufficient for our purposes. I was fortunate that, after dinner on board our aircraft, I slept the entire trip across the Atlantic.

When I awoke it was Day Two and we were over Europe preparing to descend into Switzerland. We had only one hour and five minutes to make our connection in Zurich to the Swiss Air flight we would take to Istanbul. I almost missed the flight because we had to go through security all over again and I became the random passenger for increased security screening. To make matters worse, our departure gate wasn’t physically in the terminal building. I was required to hop on shuttle which drove us to our aircraft. Fortunately my son-in-law and another person in our group stayed back to wait for me. We were the last on the aircraft and they slammed the doors behind us.

It was afternoon on Saturday, June 19, when we arrived in Istanbul. We cleared passport control, rounded up our luggage, and then waited while the three in our party whose luggage had not arrived on our flight made their claims with Swiss Air. Our tour bus with guide and driver was waiting for us. We were whisked away directly to St. Anthony of Padua Cathedral to celebrate Sunday liturgy in a small chapel set aside for us. Father Nick, the priest who was traveling as part of our group celebrated Sunday Mass just for our intimate little assembly.

After Mass, our tour bus took us to the Grand Bazaar for a brief visit because it is closed on Sunday. I was overwhelmed and would have liked to come another day and to stay for hours. The Grand Bazaar is a covered structure containing over 4,000 shops and miles of internal streets. Filled with people shopping and vendors hawking their wares the din was deafening; we dared not go far from where we entered or we would be permanently lost. I do believe I could have spent days there. And while there are lots of shops attractive to tourists, this really is a place where the residents also shop.

From the bazaar we were finally delivered to the Hotel Kent where we checked in, surrendered our passports, freshened up and went for a buffet dinner. I can’t speak for any others in our party, but I for one escaped to my room and into bed very shortly after dinner ended.

Live long and prosper!

Home at last

July 3, 2010

I arrived at Oakland Airport yesterday, July 2, at 2:30 p.m. - exhausted! I was home in Dublin by 3:15 p.m. and in bed asleep by 5:00 p.m. I slept for twelve hours!

I have unpacked and now have the first of four loads of laundry in the washer. I am also wondering where to put all the things I brought home.

You can't believe all the things you read about Internet access abroad, which is why you haven't heard from me for two weeks. I will blog about the segments of my trip as I organize my notes.

Suffice it to say the trip was wonderful, my traveling companions have become friends, and our schedule was brutal!

More to come...

Live long and prosper!